Cinque Terre, Italy / A PHOTO STORY
Five villages. A day along the coast.
Cinque Terre, from Monterosso to Riomaggiore
The harbour opens between painted walls and dark rocks, with the sea just beyond.
A night in La Spezia, a train to Monterosso and a day following the coast south: harbour views, hillside villages and a walk that was steeper than its distance suggested.
Start at the far end. Follow the coast home.
We stayed in La Spezia the night before, then began the day with a train to Monterosso. Starting at the northern end gave the journey a simple shape: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and finally Riomaggiore, before the train back to La Spezia. Five villages made a full day; the photographs hold the pauses between them.
Monterosso · the first stretch of shore
Monterosso opens the story with space: a broad edge of beach, lines of umbrellas and the sea beyond. In the photograph, the ordered stripes sit beneath a sky that refuses to be tidy. It is a different beginning from the tightly gathered harbours further down the coast.
Rows of beach umbrellas bring a precise rhythm to the shore beneath a restless sky.
Vernazza · around the harbour
At Vernazza, the coast folds inward. Roofs, boats and the curve of the harbour draw the eye towards the village, then out to sea again. Looking from above makes the relationship between the buildings and the water especially clear: almost every line seems to lead back to the harbour.
A sweep of harbour, pale buildings and terracotta roofs gathers around the water.
A change of height
A second view gives Vernazza another shape. The rooftops overlap, the tower becomes a marker, and the sea spreads out behind them. The village is the same; a little height changes the photograph completely.
From higher ground, the village narrows into a headland between two expanses of blue.
Corniglia · above the water
Corniglia shifts the rhythm again. The village sits high in the landscape, with greenery gathering below its colourful houses. Here, the frame holds more hillside than harbour: terraces, leaves and buildings sharing the same steep ground.
Colour rises above the greenery, with the sea stretching beyond the slope.
Manarola · colour on the cliff
Manarola brings the buildings close to the edge. Warm façades rise from dark rock, with white water moving below. The photograph has two different kinds of energy: the still, densely packed village and the restless sea around its feet.
Pastel façades crowd the cliff while white water traces the rocks below.
Short on the map. Steep underfoot.
The walk we took between Manarola and Riomaggiore was a reminder that distance tells only part of the story. It climbed continuously before descending continuously: a real cardio workout, especially as part of a full day. The views from the hillside brought their own reward, with the buildings below framed by leaves and terraces.
Leaves and terraces frame the buildings below: a view that belongs to the walk as much as the destination.
Two routes, very different walks
Do not confuse the steep hill route with Via dell’Amore, the coastal Lovers’ Lane. Our climb-and-descent description fits Via Beccara (path 531), rather than that coastal promenade. The Park lists Via Beccara as 1.47 km with 202 m of height difference, around an hour and difficulty EE, for expert hikers. A short line on a map does not make it an easy stroll. Check the signposted route and current trail status before setting out.
Riomaggiore · the final stop
Riomaggiore was the last village of our day, and the harbour photograph brings the journey back down to the water. Painted walls, dark rocks and open sea fill the frame. From here we returned by train to La Spezia, carrying five very different versions of the same coastline. The cover photograph is this final stop.
Train tickets · La Spezia and all five villages
For a day of village-hopping, compare individual regional tickets with the Cinque Terre Treno MS Card, also called the Cinque Terre Train Card. It includes unlimited second-class regional travel between La Spezia and Levanto in both directions, so qualifying regional journeys from La Spezia to Monterosso, between the villages, and from Riomaggiore back to La Spezia are covered during its validity. Do not assume it covers every train category. Buy for the correct travel date and check the conditions before paying. For individual journeys and current timetables, use Trenitalia’s official website or app.
Where to buy the National Park cards
Buy online through the National Park’s official card portal, or at Park Info Points in railway stations between La Spezia and Levanto. Choose the Train Card if you want the included regional rail travel; the Trekking Card does not include trains. The Park currently lists the Monterosso–Vernazza–Corniglia Blue Trail, local village buses and a reserved Via dell’Amore visit among card services. Check the current inclusions and the price for your date rather than relying on an old fare quoted elsewhere.
Planning a visit to Lovers’ Lane
Via dell’Amore requires a reserved time slot. For ordinary tourist visits, the current direction is Riomaggiore to Manarola, with entry to the left as you exit Riomaggiore station. That is the opposite direction to our southbound itinerary. If you want to include it, plan around the reservation and allow for a different final train leg. Check the official access rules for your visit; do not arrive at Manarola assuming you can simply walk through to Riomaggiore.
Crowded trains, ticket checks and room to breathe
Trains can be extremely crowded in peak season. Allow extra time at stations, travel light and do not plan on getting a seat. Give yourself enough room in the itinerary to wait for another train if necessary. Ticket inspectors do check tickets: keep yours ready, follow any validation instructions for the ticket type you bought, and carry valid ID with a named Cinque Terre card. A crowded carriage is not a reason to travel without a valid ticket. Check your return options before leaving La Spezia, rather than relying on one last connection.
Before you set out on foot
Carry water, wear walking shoes with grip and leave time for breaks. Check the Park’s live trail information and weather before committing to a hike; closures or access restrictions can change the route. A day visiting all five villages already involves plenty of walking. Taking the train for a leg is a perfectly good way to leave more time for a view, a photograph or simply a pause.
A note for your own journey
This is our one-day route, with planning information checked against official sources on 14 October 2026. Timetables, fares, card inclusions, reservations and trail access can change. Use the official links above to check the details for your travel date.
THE JOURNEY CONTINUES